🔗 Share this article

It's squash season and my favourite time of the year, not least for all the curries and other comfort food of autumn. Today's Northwest Indian sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the blend of fresh ginger, chili and jaggery lends it a wonderful flavor harmony. The biryani, on the other hand, is loaded with aromatic spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which provide enhanced flavour to the layers of grains and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

National curry week begins around October 6, so how perfect to celebrate than with a rich, warming, single-pot biryani? If you like, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element in advance and assemble everything on the occasion you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

Begin by preparing the curry base. Melt the clarified butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a moderate flame, incorporate the cumin, bay leaves and cloves, and sauté for a few seconds. Add the onion slices and cook, frequently turning, for 30-35 minutes, until tender. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and set aside (for later use during the layering).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger strips to the remaining onions, cook for a minute, then stir in the tomato paste, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander, and sauté for a short while. Turn down to a gentle flame, blend in the yoghurt and cook for two minutes.

Add the squash and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Pour in the liquid, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the temperature, cover and simmer for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure nothing's stuck to the base of the pot. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro, then remove from the stove.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Wash the rice, then put it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and salt. Heat to boiling, simmer for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

For assembling the layered dish, put a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon one portion the vegetable curry, then layer with some the rice. Sprinkle half the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint, ground cardamom and spice blend, then add the caramelized onions. Layer with the rest of curry mixture, then arrange the leftover grains. Top with the rest of ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Cover with parchment, place lid securely, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so the aromas infuse the rice. Remove of the heat, allow to stand, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the lid and present with raita and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Pickling Spices Stir-Fry)

The Indian word "pickling style" refers to seasoning a preparation using preserving spices, and the combination includes mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin seeds, asafoetida and kalonji, but they're not used only in pickles. This mixture also features in various types of spiced dishes and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek seeds and fennel in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then reserve. Heat the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a moderate flame. Introduce the ground spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, mixing, for a brief moment. Add the ginger, fry for a short while, then add the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and fry, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Add 50ml water to the pan, salt with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, reduce the flame, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then incorporate the dried mango, mix thoroughly and present hot with flatbreads or naan.